Saturday, January 15, 2005

Back to Peru

January 15, 2005
I got up this morning again to run. The stadium was closed. I am not sure why; maybe because it was 8:45 am on a Saturday morning. So, I just ran around the outside of the stadium – seven full laps. There were a couple others running as well. On my walk home, I stopped to buy a slice of watermelon and pineapple from a little street vendor. I am sure that the conditions aren’t sanitary, but the fruit is always absolutely delicious.

I took a shower using my hot water, even though it is a constant 80 degrees in my room (even at midnight), with my fan blowing the air around. Maybe in a few days, I will just chill off in a cold shower, but for now I love the hot water. I can’t even complain about the weather, it is ‘right up my alley’ and I am loving every sweat drop that falls!

As I was getting ready to go to work, my host brother, an accountant, invited me to meet one of his clients that is working with a new NGO in Huanchaco. The man was older and seemed important. He told me of this group that wants to help a poor area of town with free schooling and breakfast. He invited me to see the location at that very moment, so we boarded his private car. I know, I was a little nervous, at first. Just getting into a car of a man I have known ten minutes is a little risky. But my host family is friends with him, so I told myself I would be fine. We ventured to Huanchaco to a desolate area beside the main highway where we met with a priest who is in charge of this new project. They showed me the locale and told me of their hopes for the project: a new food pantry, a new health center, and a school. It looks like a good start to a needed community service. Suddenly it dawned on me that they wanted me to help them financially. I explained to them that I can’t offer any financial assistance, but could possible recommend a volunteer be placed there. We exchanged emails/phone numbers and said we would be in contact. I think I may even return tomorrow to a breakfast they are sponsoring for the community.

When I returned my host brother told me that the man was indeed important and was a journalist from the biggest newspaper in Peru. Oh great, I thought. I will probably be in the newspaper tomorrow with a huge headline that reads, “Gringa Gives Tons of Money to New Youth Project” or something else just as false. They did take of photo of us looking at the new property.

Since I haven’t mentioned much about my new host family – I am now living in a three story home, as before. In the first floor, lives the lady of the house with her husband. I haven’t met him yet, but the lady is precious. She is so sweet and caring. I live on the second floor behind the brother’s accountant’s office. He has graciously given me permission to use his office phone/internet whenever the need arises. He has a sweet secretary who is always present; who he said can take phone messages for me when I am out. Behind my room, at the end of the hall, lives my host brother with is family. He is married and has two little babies, one that is two years old and the other that is four months old. Above us, in the third floor, live various students. They rent single rooms and attend the university. I am paying 300 soles per month for rent (that’s kind of high) and for 33 more soles a month I can have cable TV. I may have to just do that. First, I have to buy a TV.

January 14, 2005
I have had a great day today, mostly, because I was able to get into somewhat of a routine that makes me happy. I got up at 8:00 am and decided to run. My first run since before Christmas. I headed over to the stadium (a huge soccer field surrounded by a track) and asked if I could run. The guy at the gate said I had to get permission from the office. At the office, I paid 10 soles for an entrance card for this month. When I got back to the stadium, the guy at the gate said I had signed up for the track team! He says it’s free to use the stadium for running, but I had paid to be a part of the team. Since the team was comprised of adolescents, I told him I just wanted to run. He smiled and advised me not to pay next month. My run was great! I even ran some steps. It was just like being back at home when I ran in high school. No one stared at me nor thought it weird that a woman was exercising. I didn’t even have one cat-call the whole time.

I made my breakfast of bacon and fruit and then headed to El Milagro. The kids were excited to see me and I talked with my counterparts about things that had been happening. Seems, I have a busy schedule coming up. With the school kids out of classes for the summer, they really need activities to keep them occupied. I am also coordinating an international project with a sorority sister of mine back in the states. She is a member of the Rotary and will be donating $1000 to El Milagro. I can’t even imagine us getting that kind of money here. My counterparts are super excited and started rambling off what we could buy with the money – books, materials, bookcases, and the list just goes on and on. My job is to get in contact with a particular Rotary Club here and coordinate with them about the funds.

Another activity that I have going on with work is teaching how to make earrings. I have been able to have two sessions and it is a huge hit. The mothers especially love it and they like the end product, a pair of cute earrings to wear home. I need to think of other things we can make as a group, something that can make them a profit. I need to consult my books.

I came back to my house for lunch and cooked myself a chicken breast and salad. I have a small refrigerator that is absolutely a God-send. I am able to keep my food fresher longer. Yet another thing I have taken for granted.

I returned again to El Milagro in the afternoon and played basketball with the kids. Another volunteer was also there; he is from Germany and here in Peru for a year. We played sports with the kids. He is going to be visiting with us in the afternoons.

So, I have encountered another issue with my place – the stuff I bought to kill the cockroaches works great. I woke up to a bunch of dead cockroaches in my floor. However, I also encountered some ant-like bugs eating the dead cockroaches, hundreds of them. It’s a catch-22! I kill the cockroaches, I get bugs.

While I was at home in the states, I got a pedometer (a little device that measures how far you walk that straps to your belt). I walked 3.83 miles today.

January 13, 2005
Today is the first day that I have been able to sleep later than 7:00 since I got here to Trujillo. I have desperately needed the rest too. I have been running on fumes for the last couple of days. Peace Corps held a basic computer skills workshop for youth in Trujillo this week. All the volunteers from my group, along with a youth representative, came to Trujillo for 3 days. We all stayed in a super nice hotel near the plaza and had computer training in the Da Vinci Computer Institute. I was able to bring 2 teens from El Milagro, a girl and a boy. They were absolutely overwhelmed with everything. Their eyes were as big as saucers when we arrived. I couldn’t believe that they had never left El Milagro! They had never seen an elevator, felt hot water from a shower, ate in a restaurant, or walked around the plaza. We spent an hour just exploring the hotel. They touched everything and just giggled and giggled. It was great to be able to be with the kids as they enjoyed for the first time the things we take for granted. Most importantly, they got to learn how to use a computer, including instant messenger and email. Hopefully, this will brighten their futures.

I took the kids home to El Milagro last night around 9:00 pm by taxi. The entire neighborhood was locked up with huge metal gates. We had to search and search for an open road to actually get to their homes. It was scary, for sure. The taxi driver admitted that he was even scared. He says they attack taxis in El Milagro at this time of night. They lock up the streets that way to prevent robberies, but all I could keep thinking was how they get out if the need arises. They don’t, I guess.

Today, I cleaned my apartment and unpacked my last box. I got down on my hands and knees to scrub the floors; they needed it for sure. I put up new curtains, including a shower curtain! My new place is great. I just love all the space, hot water (so hot it scalds!), and my own kitchen. Something that is driving me nuts -- I have cockroaches. I mean cockroaches as big as mice. They are everywhere too, in my closets, in my cabinets, just running crazy. In the afternoon, I went into downtown to buy some much needed groceries; I have been living off canned tuna for two days now. I also bought something to kill my little cockroach friends. Pray, it works.

In the afternoon, I made a salad and visited the internet café that is next door. I have already made friends with the owner which is good. He wants to talk about psychology. I think it might mean he just wants to talk, but it does feel good to be settling in.

January 7, 2005
I am staying at my counterpart’s house tonight. My little apartment won’t be ready until tomorrow morning, so I am bunking here. It is a little wierd, cause I am not sure if they want me to chill with them or if it is ok to just hang out on the bed that they provided me with. I have had a pretty good day so far. I have realized that I am not as lonely here as I thought I would be earlier today.

I got into Trujillo around 7:30 this morning and went directly to my counterpart’s house. I slept for about 3 hours, since sleeping on that bus never works out good for me. I woke up and hung out with a couple of my coworkers who were a the house for a meeting. I left around 1:00 for the internet, where i stayed for an hour. After internet, I went to the post office. What a surprise to find that I had a package from Colorado. A good friend of mine is working out there and sent me a box filled with stuff I was just craving -- a low carb chocolate bar and a fingernail file.

I made it to El Milagro around 3:30 and everyone was extremely excited to see me. They wanted to see my photos and hear all about my time at home in the states. The moms and kids alike couldn't get enough of my stories. It really made me thankful for such a great group of people to work with. I have to admit I had been feeling a little bit down in the afternoon. I knew that I would, since that is what always happens on my first day back, but being around my families in El Milagro put me in a great mood.

After work, I stopped by my site mate’s place and found her busy in an evaluation with her youth. We ended up chatting and we caught up on what has been going on here and at home in the states. I was a bit surprised to find how much I had missed Trujillo and my life here.

January 5, 2005
Here I am on the plane to Lima, for who knows how long to stay. I have no plans to return to the states anytime soon. Heck, I almost think it would just be better for me to stay the entire year and a half without a trip home. We will see how long I make it, I guess. As for returning to Peru, I was ready to come back. I could see myself getting more than a little bored at home in the states. I miss my mom so much already. She cried when I left and I wanted her back so bad when I was waiting by myself in the terminal. She has been so great to me this vacation. With a home decked out in holiday spirit, to providing me with money, most importantly she is my best friend and I love her so much.

I am returning to Peru spiritually renewed and emotionally stronger.

I made it to Lima around midnight. I am now in a hotel that costs $20 and is close to an area of town I am familiar with, so things are good. I have good cable, too. My taxi driver and his wife were at the airport to pick me up as soon as i left the luggage area. I was surprised to see them. I guess that just goes to show they need the money and didn’t forget me. They actually invited me to lunch at thier house tomorrow. I had forgotten the humidity of this country. My hair was in fuzz and my skin sticky by the time I got settled in my room tonight. I guess I will have to get used to (again) the feeling of not quite being clean. You just can't feel as clean here as you can in the states, or atleast I can’t.

I am having a few lonely feelings now too. I know that they are normal and that it is natural to feel that way when you leave your loved ones to come to live in a foreign country. it just sucks a bit. Hopefully, I will feel better soon. I am anxious to get to Trujillo and get moved into my new pad. I look forward to decorating and getting all my new stuff set up.

January 4, 2005
I spoke about my PC experience to a high school Spanish class today at my ole stomping grounds in Hiawassee. It was interesting to be in front of American students telling them about Peru. Usually it is vice-versa with me telling Peruvians all about the USA. Mostly the kids were surprised to find that Peruvians eat guinea pig, just as Peruvians are surprised to find Americans keep guinea pigs in their homes as pets. One girl made a comment that I have had to change a lot by living in Peru. With that comment, I felt I had made something of an impression on the class -- that life in the United States is not like life in the whole world.

Tuesday, January 04, 2005

Kill a Turkey

December 27, 2004
Christmas was a great event as usual this year. I celebrated for three days with food, family, and presents. I am taking a great, new digital camera and a George Foreman grill back to Peru with me.

I can’t believe I have been here in the states for 6 days already. My how the time flies by…

December 22, 2004
The airport was absolutely packed with holiday traffic. I stood in line next to a group of 30 missionaries from South Carolina for an entire 3 hours. You would think that these people would have been a little nicer, since they came to Peru to promote (what I hope) is peace, love, and spiritual growth. They were screaming (in English) to everyone in the airport, fussing about the wait, and just generally being extremely embarrassing and obnoxious. I finally boarded my flight at 1:00 am and struggled to catch a few hours of sleep.

Mom was waiting on me at the airport. It was so great to see her; amazing how much you appreciate your mother when you don’t get to see her as often as you would like. We had a good breakfast and headed to our home in Helen, Georgia. She surprised me with her new home all decked out in holiday decorations. There were wreaths, Christmas trees, lights, and Santas everywhere. It is great to be at home and feel the holiday cheer.

December 20, 2004
The last couple of days have been a very busy. I have had three Christmas parties, one at work with my little kiddies, one with my coworkers, and the last one with my ACJ bosses. All three parties were extremely entertaining and warm. It seems that they focus more on the true meaning of Christmas instead of bombarding each other with gifts. We said warm, inspirational words to each other as we passed out small gifts and ate paneton (a fruit cake that tastes like sweet bread).

I have also been on a big ‘new home’ search. I have looked and looked all around Trujillo for a new family and new place to live. Since PC wants me to live closer to my counterparts, that means that I get to live in a nicer area of town, closer to downtown. At the end of two solid days of searching, I finally found my new home. It is like a mini apartment inside a family’s home. I will have my own bathroom, my own little kitchen, hot water, and internet! And to top it all off, the family seems really genuine and nice.

I head to Lima tonight to catch my flight home for the holidays.

December 14, 2004
Just when I was thinking that it takes forever to get something accomplished in this country -- I am surprised! I had my second site visit today. My APCD from Lima came to see how my work and living situation is working out. He showed up around 9:00 am and I discussed a few difficulties/successes I had been having and then we went to El Milagro where we chatted with my coworkers. My coworkers gave my APCD wonderful feedback on my job as a volunteer. (They think I rock!) Then, we returned to my house to chat with my family. He discussed with them that all PCVs have to pay rent and I haven’t paid since I moved in the place. He also told them I would be moving. Holy smokes! I get to move to be closer to my coworkers (who live where there is hot water, laundry mats, and more!) He made it so easy. It was surprising for them I could tell, but you just gotta get it out there in touchy situations like this. Yet, another thing I am learning from this experience. Oh yeah, maybe things got done so much faster because the Gringo was the one doing it.

December 10, 2004
I got up around 10:00 this morning. My site mate and I went out dancing last night with a couple of her new guy friends. It was fun to actually get dressed up, put on makeup and heels, for a night on the town. Having never met her friends, I was a bit nervous to what I could be getting into, but they were very respectful and easy to talk to. We got back to my house around 3:00 am to find the front door locked with the chain – incredibly odd. I had to wake up my family to get into the house.

I made it to work to have my English class and had a great time with my little kiddies. The five that were there were very surprised when I pulled out 5 coloring books in English with easy-to-do puzzles. They just went berserk over them! They wanted to color and draw all morning. Not to mention we practiced our numbers and colors in English. I think I bought those at the dollar store when I was at home in the states. Boy, what kids at home take for granted.

I had to change my email. There is a mean virus going around; it is shutting down some of these internet cafes for days.

I cleaned my room and hand-washed some of my laundry. I also made my special cup of coffee -- I brought some great real chocolate down from Cajamarca which I add to my brewed organic coffee, top it all off with 3 packs of Splenda and 2 spoonfuls of powdered milk. And wala -- you have a Peace Corps Mocha Cappuccino.

December 5, 2004
I was actually missing being in Trujillo. I think that means something positive. If while I am not here, but miss it, it has to mean that I am getting accustomed to this crazy place. It’s just good to be home, in my little room, with my things, where I feel comfortable. Lima is such a big busy city. It is so American in so many ways. Things are readily available at your finger tips, it’s expensive, and you see a huge variety of people making their homes there.

My site mate and I met for dinner tonight, did some shopping, and then saw a movie. The movie was fair; something about Sky Captain. I don’t recommend it.

December 3, 2004
Well, I have been able to spend almost a week in Lima. I was invited to volunteer (with some other PCVs) at the annual Children with Special Needs Christmas Party at the Ambassador’s Mansion. They didn’t pull any stops for this event. There were games, face painting, donuts & chocolate milk for about 300 hundred deaf, blind, and burnt children. Santa, Mrs. Claus, an Elf, Barney, and Elmo completed the event. As volunteers, we were asked to help guide the children and just generally be of assistance. I was assigned to the blind group. My Spanish definitely struggled a little bit when I had to be very conscious about what I said and how I described each thing; gone were the hand gestures I find I use a lot.

In the afternoon, a couple of volunteers and I went shopping in a whole sale market by the central plaza in Lima. Things are so cheap here – Jackpot!!

November 30, 2004
I am in Lima working on the Peace Corps Peru Newsletter, Pasa La Voz. I volunteered to be part of the newsletter staff at the VAC meeting, a couple of months ago, to help out. Here I am on a 3-day all expenses paid trip to the capital city of Peru. Which in laymen’s terms means I am staying with an Embassy employee along with another volunteer, walking everywhere (can’t afford the taxis), and eating what’s in the frig because I am broke.

November 28, 2004
I got up late this morning along with the rest of our crowd here in Cajamarca. We ventured to the central market for lunch, fruit, and a few necessities. A couple of other volunteers, who happened to be in town, joined us. We spent the rest of the afternoon hanging out at the hostel, just chatting, listening to music, and watching TV.

I ventured to internet for a short email session to find that my email has been hijacked once again. A couple of days ago, I attempted to download a zip file, which I had received from a fellow volunteer. Much to my dismay, my emails were messed up. I couldn’t log in and many people from home said that the same virus had been sent to them from my blocked emails. I had a computer guy ‘fix’ it for me and he says that someone is hacking the emails here. Today I was able to get into my emails, both yahoo and hotmail, but someone had changed my settings and sent offensive messages. I know that it is someone in Peru, because the messages are in Spanish.

I have a 14-hour bus ride from Cajamarca to Lima tonight at 7:00.

November 27, 2004
We got up this morning at 3:45 am to venture about 25 miles from Cajamarca to an old Incan aqueduct in Cumbemayo. I was thinking how crazy I am to have let my fellow volunteers talk me into such an adventure. We get to our destination around 4:30 am. It was still dark and we traipsed down a scary hill to what I thought must be a town of some sort. Much to my dismay, one straw house awaited us. We bypassed the straw house to climb a small embankment where we set up the breakfast camp. We ate bread and jam and waiting for the sun to rise. As the sun was making its light known to all, we ventured to the top of the first peak we found. It was cool to just hang out and watch it get light outside, many miles away from the nearest town. The view was magnificent with mountains that protruding from the ground like upside down tin cans. We hiked for several hours and discovered the aqueduct (along with some mean smelling feces on all of our feet). For our trip home, we hailed the milk truck and climbed aboard the back joining several other country folk, since only a few combis pass down the dirt road per day. I have to say that my ride back into town on top of metal buckets of cow’s milk has been the highlight of my Peace Corps experience.

November 25, 2004
My site mate and I made it to Cajamarca for Turkey Day and what a turkey day is has turned out to be. I woke up this morning to find a live turkey patiently sitting on the bed of my site mate (where she was still sleeping). A couple of other volunteers had just bought the thing in the market for our big celebration. After naming it and a little maltreatment, it was carried to another volunteer’s house for the slaughter. There my volunteer friends got the turkey drunk. Literally, they poured conazo (a grain alcohol made at home in all of Cajamarca – think white lightning) down its throat, proceeded to slit its throat, and finally pluck it clean. I kept a feather as a memoir of this momentous event. We then carried the now ready to cook turkey to another volunteers pad for its new home in the oven. We prepared a stuffing of wheat bread, veggies, star fruit and apples. Trimmed the meal with made-from-scratch sweet potato pie and garlic mashed potatoes. By 5:00 pm the bird was done, we pulled her out and chowed down; regretting a bit the star fruit we had added to the stuffing for it smelled a little bizarre. A great Peace Corps Thanksgiving feast had begun.

November 24, 2004
Having searched on the internet for anything about my site and Trujillo, I recently encountered a group from the Netherlands in Huanchaco that is organizing itself to coordinate travelers who would like to volunteer while vacationing in Peru. Since we always need an extra hand in El Milagro, I invited this new group, Otra Cosa, for a visit. The couple in charge accompanied me to work and was immediately bombarded by all the little kiddies of our program. I could tell they could sense what I feel everyday working with them – they unconditional love and devotion and sheer exhaustion of so many hugs, kisses, and attention. We hung around and talked with my counterparts, sharing ideas and information. Later we visited the landfill to see the reality of the families. I am so incredibly affected each time I visit there. The poverty that leads people to make their living in such circumstances is so unbelievable at times, but how real that it all truly exists.

November 23, 2004
I had my Dental Health workshop with the kids and adolescents today. We played a couple of games that involved the basics of brushing your teeth and what you can use when you don’t have a toothbrush or toothpaste. A little salt and your pointer finger can work wonders! The YMCA had agreed to donate toothbrushes to the kids who attended, so what a surprise when I pulled out real toothbrushes for everyone. We first ate a candy to dirty our teeth and then proceeded to brush. What I didn’t anticipate was that many had never before held a toothbrush. I had to manually help them maneuver their brush in their mouth; advise them not to swallow the toothpaste; and explain the importance of brushing your tongue. We took an excellent photo of the smiling bright white mouths afterwards. Now if I can just get them to do it everyday.

Sunday, November 21, 2004

Mom's Workshop

November 19, 2004
Great news! I get to leave my site for Thanksgiving to celebrate with other volunteers in another department. I was hesitant about asking my boss in Lima about permission to leave, but turns out, he is very cool and understanding. So, I am thinking about heading to Ancash, land of jeweled lakes and sparkling-white mountain peaks.

I gave a dental health workshop to my kiddies today in El Milagro. My head was busting by the time I got finished. It was crazy – there were about 20 of those little hellions. It took me 15 minutes just to get them rounded up and every 5 I had to pull someone off the top of the table or stop a fist fight. All and all it was successful and they learned the types of food that you should eat for healthy teeth. The next session we are actually going to practice brushing our teeth. It should be a fun time for everyone.

I had an interesting conversation today about ethics in the universities here. I learned that most all professors are corrupt and accept bribes to pass students when they are failing. In fact, many professors fail students to supplement their income. Also, students can be enrolled in a class but never show up for class, pay the professor at the end of the semester, and pass. How many professionals out there paid their way through the university and never actually got an education?

November 15, 2004
I received an email today from PC, confirming we can’t leave our departments for Thanksgiving. This means no trip to Huanchaco for my group. All that searching for a place to stay for nothing! At least now I know the best places to stay when I venture to the beach. Technically, my group could still come to Huanchaco, but it wouldn’t be legal and we could get into trouble with PC. I am extremely sad to know that I won’t be able to spend Turkey Day with my fellow Americans. Here in Trujillo, we have only 2 volunteers, me and my site mate. In other departments, there are as many as 40. Most of the time, I appreciate being the only volunteer here, but when the day calls for celebration like Thanksgiving, I wish we had more volunteers.

November 14, 2004
My site mate and I went to a professional soccer game today in the big stadium in Trujillo. We had a good time! The fans (mostly men) go crazy for soccer here, making noise, raising banners, throwing smoke bombs, and running around without their shirts.

All of the YMCA staff met for pizza for my birthday tonight. The pizza was a bit meager, but there was ample sangria.

November 13, 2004
Today is my 25th birthday. When I was around 11-12 years old, I remember thinking that by this age I would have the ‘American Dream’, a great job, a loving husband, and a couple of kids. Boy, am I behind schedule. I am still holding out for my dream but not quite ready yet.

It’s hard to be away from home on holidays and days like today. I find myself thinking about what I would be doing if I was at home. I would be surrounded by my loved ones, enjoying a meal or two together, and birthday cake. My day hasn’t been so different here, so I wonder why I feel the melancholies. I think it is because I don’t feel the affection that just comes so naturally from being with friends of ole and family that just love you as you are.

We celebrated in El Milagro with a lunch of Ahi de la Gallina (bread pudding with chicken over rice), singing happy birthday (first in English then in Spanish), and with a delicious chocolate cake.

Later in the evening, my site mate and I watched “Bourne Supremacy” at the cinema, a good ending to my special day.

November 11, 2004
Boy, what it takes for a self-sufficient, open-minded, independent woman to make it in this society. Not only am I learning how to make it such a ‘machismo’ culture, but they are learning how to put up with me. I think I baffle my family (and probably my counterparts) at my audaciousness. To an American, it is normal things – jogging in the mornings, buying furniture, going into Trujillo or Huanchaco alone. I could go on and on. To a Peruvian, it’s just unheard of to have a woman who does as she pleases (without the consent of a male like her father, brother, husband) and makes her own decisions.

November 9, 2004
I went with my counterpart to Porvenir, another poor part of Trujillo, to continue our psychological study. We gave tests to 2 classrooms of high school seniors. I continue to learn more about what kind of investigation we are actually doing. We are testing the ‘emotional intelligence’ levels of these kids and its correlation with personality. What that means in laymen’s terms is that we are handing out surveys to 16 year olds about 'how you think you are' that take around 2 hours to complete.

In comparison to how studies are conducted in the states, this one is turning out to be very different. Different in that none of the rules that we have to go by at home apply here. We don’t need parental permission, the kids have to put their name on each survey (not anonymous), and they are rushed to complete the surveys on time. It seems illogical to me; we are skewing the results with how the test is administered. I have mentioned a few of my doubts to my counterpart, but she just says that is how it is done here, so I am not sure there is much more I can do.

I am having a good time hanging out with my counterpart on a more casual level. After work, we went into Trujillo together ate a good meal and shopped for fruit and sandals.

November 5, 2004
My English class was great this morning. I realize that I have developed a certain confidence in my job responsibilities as a volunteer. I am excited about doing new projects, new workshops, and new classes for both the kids and teenagers. At first, I had an overwhelming sense of incompetence, like I just wasn’t going to be able to do a good job. Now, (after some practice) I know that I am doing some great work with the families of El Milagro. I find that I am comfortable in front of groups, I sing with all my might for my kiddies, and I can’t wait for my next chance to work with them.

In the afternoon, a Peace Corps employee from Cajamarca came to give a workshop on raising guinea pigs to our families. While he was busy talking to the moms, my counterpart and I took the kids to the basketball court to play Charades and Duck, Duck, Goose (really it was to keep the noise down for the workshop in the center).

I picked my laundry up from the laundry mat after work. I haven’t been up to washing all my clothes by hand lately. I have been taking them into Trujillo for a real washing. I have to say it makes me smile to put on clothes that have really been washed. I figure in circumstances as these you have to do what makes you happy, so even though it’s a little expensive, I will lug my clothes to the cleaners.

November 2, 2005
Well, the elections didn’t come out as I had hoped. But I did predict that Bush would end up winning. Most volunteers are definitely disappointed, including me. Life goes on.

I showed up at our center around 3:30, the designated time for my last session with the moms on self esteem. I welcomed only three mothers. By 4:00, a couple more had trickled in, and finally at 4:30 we had eight moms, enough to get started. Punctuality is not considered very important – usually this is right up my alley, because I am always late.

My knees were shaking a bit as I stood before the circle of tired, unsmiling faces. Some nodded, others napped, or nursed their babies as I began with a customary “good afternoon” to all. Gathering my strength and my Spanish-speaking confidence, I explained to the mothers that we were going on a “trip”. We are venturing far away to a huge forest, where many beautiful and strange plants and creatures live. It’s going to be a long trip, I said, so we better go prepared. I handed a roll of toilet paper to the first mom and asked that she take as much as she thinks she will need for our vacation. Unaccustomed to having toilet paper, she immediately smells the roll and exclaimed to the others its fresh fragrance. She slowly took her amount and prettily folded it in her hands. The other mother’s continued in the fashion of the first, each appreciating the soft, white paper.

I continued with my story stating that our toilet paper won’t be used in the customary way, but in a very important manner. Each square of paper will represent something good or positive about each of us. I could tell that a few of the mothers did not really understand, so I gave my own examples. I told them I am a good English teacher and I like to play sports as I tear off each square. The first mom didn’t want to separate each of her toilet paper squares (she felt it was wasteful), but was encouraged by the group to do so and continued in saying she was a good mother, a good worker, and liked to play volleyball. Each mom in succession shared her likes and positive aspects. A couple of the moms began with ‘I don’t know’, but with encouragement from the group realized they too had personal strengths.

We soon continued our “trip” and encountered a very special tree in the forest, the “identitree” (a drawing of a tree with many people doing different actions) which I had drawn on a huge poster. When I asked for their first impressions, one mother said it was the “tree of life”. She elaborated that at some point in time, you feel like you are each one of the characters, and once you reach the top of the tree you are complete. I thought to myself that was a very insightful response. I asked the group to find a character that they identify with right now, today. Each mom explained her choice and some even described where their family members could be found. Many said that they were under the shoulders of their children, holding up the family; while others said they were on the tree, climbing higher and higher each day. Only one mother said she was the lonely, angry one way out on the limb.

As we approach the conclusion of our trip, we stumbled upon a huge “web of appreciation”, where we constructed a web by passing a ball of string to someone in the circle after telling them something you like about them. Looking their group members right in the eye, each mom told of the many wonderful qualities and thanked each other for her friendship. Each mom continued on until our web was complete. I was amazed at the ease in which they could sing the praises of their neighbors. One mom looked around the circle and exclaimed that we were all connected in the web, just as we are connected in our friendships and love for one another.

With applause for all those who attended the session, we adjourned. As everyone was leaving the center, one mom stopped and with a huge smile on her face gave me a big hug and thanked me for bringing a little bit of cheerfulness to the center.

I have learned that the need to be loved, appreciated, and connected, not to mention the delight in having a little bit of fun, can be found in everyone. It transcends cultures, ages, social classes, and languages.

October 29, 2004
I have had the croop for a couple of days now. I just keep coughing and coughing. I thought if you took vitamins, you weren’t supposed to be susceptible to illness -- old wives tale, I guess. Because of my sickness, I have taken a break from running. I look forward to getting back to it – hopefully tomorrow I will feel up to it.

In the afternoon, I had my workshop with the mother’s group. It went so well today! Having not really worked with groups of adults before, this has been especially challenging for me. Today I felt like I was in my element – back to my confident, competent self. This was my second session in a series of 3 self esteem workshops. Before my first session last week, I didn’t sleep for 2 days. I was worried sick, mostly about my lack of Spanish fluency. I did a satisfactory job on the first session. However for today’s activities, I just prepared properly, practiced my Spanish, relaxed, and went with my gut. It turned out to be the right combination. Not only did I feel good about the activities, but the mothers said that they enjoyed it too.

October 26, 2004
I enjoyed a night of glitz and glimmer amidst Trujillo’s finest. My site mate and I went to the theater for The Bohemian, an opera. Not only was the show good, but the people watching we did from the balcony section was spectacular. We saw a man dressed in a white suit, complete with white hair, white beard, white shoes and a cane. He could have passed for the Colonel, as in Kentucky Fried Chicken’s Colonel. All the women were coiffed and lacquered, draped in wraps, and prancing in heels. Our seats weren’t the greatest – we had to lean over the balcony – but the experience was noteworthy, for sure. Afterwards, we headed to a café for a cappuccino and ice cream. There are some definite perks to living in the city.

October 25, 2004
I ran this morning as usual. The exercise is so great for me and I am thoroughly enjoying it, not to mention I have dropped a few pounds.

My counterpart asked me to be a part of an investigation that she and a friend are conducting. Not really understanding what I was getting into, I attended our first meeting in the library of a private university, El Vallejo. It seems that they want to conduct a research study of 3 schools in Trujillo and publish the results in a psychology magazine here in Peru. I am not really sure why they wish to include me. At first, I thought it was just to be nice, so I would feel included. But now, I think it may be for other reasons, like because I am a ‘psychologist’. Which brings me to an interesting point -- Peruvians believe you are what you study. Since I studied psychology in college, then I am a psychologist, regardless if I have a master’s and/or PhD. They get very hung up on these titles as well. Only a psychologist can do what has to do with psychology, only a teacher can teach, etc. It is extremely frustrating coming from the states where a college diploma means you have a higher education and that doesn’t make you an expert in any particular area. Often our fields overlap as well. For example, a historian might make a very good social worker or an English major might make a great loan officer. It depends upon your skills, experience, and interests. Here none of that matters; you do what you have studied.

As for their beliefs about psychology, at times, I feel like the general public believes psychologists are ‘mind readers’ and work with ‘magic’. I have even met some psychologists here who would be quick to say they can ‘read minds’. There is a particular test that all psychologists use here in Trujillo, where they have children draw their family. The psychologists ‘interpret’ these drawings for a definition of the child. For example, short arms means that the child suffers from anxiety, etc. I am sure that this type of analyses may be true in some cases, but here they believe it to be 100% correct and that the child’s makeup is as they have drawn. I have tried to explain that we consider these tests theories, not absolutions. It’s truly a fascinating culture.

October 23, 2004
A group of kids from Huarmey, a city 4 hours south of Trujillo on the way to Lima, came to visit our program in El Milagro. These kids are child workers; they sell food on the streets, shine shoes, or simply beg for money.

Incredibly musically inclined, the kids gave us a concert of Andean music -- complete with Andean instruments and singing. Each kid knew how to play all instruments and frequently they would switch with each other, but never miss a beat. It was a very beautiful experience for me. They may be child laborers who have a very limited childhood, but they created such beauty with their music.

Child labor is a heartbreaking reality in this country. On every corner, in every combi, in all establishments, you see kids working. Working as if they were adults, most have a worldly, streetwise facade that is quite eerie. You see kids of about 11-12 years giving orders on the combis and bargaining with buyers on the streets. Have they ever had a rightful childhood? Will they ever?

Sunday, October 24, 2004

Casa Grande's Catwalk

October 17, 2004
I took a trip to Huanchaco Beach today. I have to admit I am pretty lucky to be so close to the ocean, the 20 minute combi ride is nothing. At first glace, Huanchaco doesn’t seem like much of a beach town. It’s like most of Trujillo with contamination, pollution, and trash. If you take a second look, chill out on the pier or in a restaurant, its other beauties become much more apparent. It has a lazy, tranquil ambiance that kind of just begins to seep into your soul. The sunsets are magnificent and the local fishermen astride their long straw boats help you appreciate what’s left of the ancient seaside culture. It makes me want to transform myself into a jewelry-making hippie, dreds, flowy skirts, dark tans, and all. I want to learn to surf, paint seascapes, eat ceviche every meal, run along the coast line in the mornings, and get to know the locals. My purpose for the visit was to find a place for my entire training group to gather for Thanksgiving. After a grueling 6 hours of searching, I feel like we have some real prospects for a great vacation spot. I have to find a way to make this charming, little beach town a part of my ‘official’ job!

October 12, 2004
My English class was awesome today! I held both a morning and afternoon class which is amazing in itself. In the afternoon, hordes of kids crowded around my table to practice “My name is… and I can…” The only way I could keep them from killing me and/or each other was to promise a game outside after the class.

At a loss for what to play I quickly surveyed my surroundings and I spotted a long, knotted rope in the corner of the filing cabinet. Jump Rope! I corralled the kids to the basketball court and tried to explain the joys of jumping rope. Having never seen or heard of this form of entertainment, it took me 10 full minutes just to explain the jist of the activity. After one good example from a girl who successfully jumped 4 times over the rope everyone was excited to get their turn; which quickly turned into a lesson of “one at a time” and “boy, girl, boy, girl.”

Around 6:00, we were signaled by my counterpart to head back inside. I promised the group a cookie and soda if they entered the building, washed their hands, and took a seat at the table. When I entered the Center and they were all relatively clean and seated quietly at the table, I could’ve kissed them everyone. They looked so sweet and innocent, patiently waiting their treat. I love my job.

October 11, 2004
Today I met, along with my site mate, with a representative from JICA, the Japanese government’s form of Peace Corps. Peace Corps coordinated his visit to Trujillo because Japan is interested in starting a volunteer program here and Japan wanted to have a ‘real’ look at life as a volunteer. I have to admit I was a little honored to be put in such a position to help influence (in a small way) the launch of another volunteer organization, especially from a country as impressive as Japan. He traveled in a striking SUV, with a chauffer, and accompanied by a body guard. Driving such a nice rig around Peru, you would need the protection I am sure! We ventured first to El Milagro where I explained my work and showed him our Center.

We dared to visit the landfill for a first hand view of the destitution of our program’s families. I have to admit that this visit (my second one to date) was even more moving than the first. I was once more astounded at such the level of poverty where families dredge through waste, personal and hospital, to survive. I noticed an entire new community of ranchos (tiny plastic houses) in the distance. To think that families are still leaving from the rural communities and mountains of Peru with dreams of a better life, to arrive here in El Milagro to live and work in a dump.

We ended our tour in Winchanzao where my site mate greeted our guest with a great welcome sign, explained her job responsibilities, and showed off her Youth Center.

Our visit was interesting and educating, as well as entertaining. A comment made by the representative struck me as extremely amusing. He said, “It seems that you have to be very flexible as a volunteer.” A couple of years ago, flexible would not have been a word I would have used to describe myself and I doubt my friends and family would have thought so either. In fact, inflexible would have been more appropriate. Today I see a new open me immerging from my previous unbendable shell and I like it.

October 10, 2004
I find that I am definitely slacking in my journaling. I think the reason is maybe because the days run together or I may simply be unmotivated. I will give myself a pep talk about the importance of actually putting events and thoughts in writing, especially for the obvious stress release/soul soothing it provides. I need all I can get!

I had a friend visit from the states this week. It was fantastic to actually have someone who knows me here, to see my work, meet my family and friends, try typical dishes, and marvel with me at the acts and cultural norms of Peru.

We visited Casagrande, the town about an hour away where my host dad works. It’s a small bustling town, home of the largest sugar factory. For a second, on the ride into town, I felt like I was in South Georgia with the huge shade tree lined roads and flat green fields. That thought quickly vanished and I remembered I was in the desert when I experienced my first dust storm just off the main plaza. We had a personal tour of the factory, which proved to be a workman’s comp nightmare. What an adventure! We scaled the towers of the plant to get a bird’s eye view of the sugar cane crushers/extractors. We cat walked over the huge pools of molasses and were warned to tread slowly and carefully – there’s no pulling you out of that stuff if you fall.

We ventured around Lima and to the beach for souvenir shopping where we bought beautiful paintings so cheap it almost made me feel guilty actually paying the artist, amazing tapestries so incredibly colorful, and miniature typical Peruvian boats.

I feel as if I have had a week of vacation! Now it’s all back to work.

September 25, 2004
Running is great. So far, so good. We are developing a routine and my body is getting used to getting up at 7:30 every morning. I went to El Milagro at noon today for my first ‘sports’ class. I took my Frisbee as back-up. Only 5 kids came to my class, but it was fun anyway. We played basketball. We worked on passes and lay-ups. The kids don’t really want to allow for everyone’s turn. We have to work on that.

A very interesting thing happened right before I was to leave for lunch. A bunch of young guys borrowed our soccer ball for game. The ball got away from them and went into the highway and was run over by a big truck. My counterpart told the guys they had to pay for the ruined ball. She demanded $60 from the guys and that they had only an hour to get it to the center or she was talking to the police. I really thought this was inappropriate for a couple of reasons: one, it was an accident; it was nobody’s fault and two, the guys don’t have that kind of money. My counterpart knows that.

I shopped for a dog this afternoon with my brother. I am seriously considering getting a little companion. I am just wanting for the perfect pooch to come along.

September 20, 2004
I got up this morning at 7:30 to go run with my brother. We run in the industrial park that is close to where we live. It is a pretty gross area of town, with trash everywhere and lots of pollution, but there is pavement. This is something short of amazement, since most of the roads here are pure sand. Hopefully, we will make this a habit.

I cleaned my room, did some laundry, and then ate lunch with the family. At 4:30 I went to our weekly work meeting. Mostly, we just sat and chatted -- I even enjoyed it. I didn’t even feel like we were wasting time, but actually socializing and building relationships. My coworkers are sweethearts; we are all going to go out on Thursday night. It is YMCA of Trujillo’s 12th anniversary.

After the meeting, I headed to internet. Now I am at home. Supper was an apple, a can of tuna, handful of raisins, and a cup of decaf coffee. Yummy!

Monday, September 20, 2004

Robbed at Gunpoint

September 19, 2004
We took our families from El Milagro on another fieldtrip today. It is so great to see them relax and have a good time. We went to a club (of a sort) that had a playground and pool. I was exhausted by the time I got home.

September 18, 2004
I just spent the last week in Lima with all of my volunteer buddies at our Reconnect. It was a time for us to share experiences and enjoy the big city. Our days were filled with activity and we even met with the Ambassador to share our adventures. My return to Trujillo was tough, but things are definitely going to be ok. I realize how lucky I am to have a counterpart that treats me not only as a respected employee but as a friend and I have a host family that genuinely cares about me and my well-being. Everything else will come with time and I know I have to be patient.

September 10, 2004
I got up this morning around my usual 9:00 am, and then headed to El Milagro for my English class. It was a fun time. The kids really seem to enjoy the class. I think they especially like having their personal work book and the fact that I give stickers to those who participates helps too. After work, I went to the gym and then to the grocery store.

September 8, 2004
I ran with a group from my neighborhood this morning. I had to get out of bed at 6:00; extremely early for the schedule I have been living lately. It was a good run, about 30 minutes. They told me it would be dangerous to run alone, so I guess if I make a habit out of this, I will always have to take someone with me.

I headed to El Milagro around 10:00, hung out with the kids there and helped them with their homework. They love to just sit around and ask me questions about life in the states. I did a home visit with one of my coworkers to visit a small store the family has opened.

I started an adult English class this evening. I had 4 participants and I think it was a good first class. Even a ‘Señora’ came to the class. She was the mother of one of the guys I played basketball with on Sunday. We mostly had a conversation class where we talked about ourselves and I wrote new vocabulary on the board. Hopefully, this will be a weekly thing.

September 7, 2004
I went to Huanchaco (the beach) today to see about a group home that is interested in having a Peace Corps Volunteer. The home is located right on the beach! It is in a wonderful setting, the director seemed super nice and energetic, and they certainly have some things that a PCV could do.

I met with my site-mate and we headed to Trujillo to run errands and just chill for the afternoon. We met a really cool lady that runs an arts store just off the Plaza. She spoke great English because she had lived in the USA as a child. She had some really strong opinions about our presidency and her own country. It was an enlightening conversation. I will definitely have to return to her shop to chat.

September 5, 2004
I played full court, 5 on 5 basketball today. It was wonderful! One of my friends from the gym invited me to their usual Sunday afternoon game and I had a great time. We played for over two hours. I was so surprised to find an organized game like this here and these people could really play. It was so great. So, after the game, they asked me if I could teach them English. Situations like this usually make me nervous, because I feel like people want to use me for my ‘English-teaching’ abilities. They have all studied English and most of them are still in the University here. They want a serious class with conversation practice. Our first class is Wednesday, we will see.

August 30, 2004
Today is a holiday for Santa Rosa here in Peru. It seems they have a day off every couple of weeks – I am not complaining, means I get a day off too. Holidays like today are when everything is closed and everyone just hangs out at home. Days like today make me pensive and somewhat homesick. It’s probably because there’s little for me to do or go see. It has taken me a while to get used to ‘having little to do’. In fact, I am not quite sure I am used to it at all. It seems to make me think of times of past and of home. Last night, I described college life for American young adults to my host brother. I told of dorm life, intramural sports, clubs, the social life, and just being around so many people your age with your common interests. He was amazed at the liberty we are free to experience at this time in our lives. To a Peruvian, the freedom to live away from your parents, come and go as you please, work if you choose to, cook your own meals, and have your own friends is a way of life that is unheard of for a person of 18-23 years. It made me very proud to have had this opportunity; yet aware of the dangers we expose our youth to at such a young age. I realize now that I learned so much during my time in college. College is so much more than what you learn in class. Granted, I believe I am probably learning more now during this experience as a volunteer, but nonetheless, the furtherance of my education has helped formed me into the person I see today.

Another topic that has been on my mind today is a remark I have heard here about Americans in general. In two days, I have heard twice from two different people, that Americans respect each other. I have never thought about this concept before. Merely because I take it for granted, I think. We respect individuals as individuals, we respect other people’s property, and we respect each other’s rights as citizens of the USA. We simply RESPECT. I have so much pride in our culture. This type of respect here in this country really doesn’t exist. That is a strong statement. Maybe it would be best written -- the level of respect here is much lower. The crime rate is extremely high, the majority of all politicians are corrupt, and strangers show little/no consideration for each other.

August 29, 2004
I received my replacement cell phone and bank card today. I am still waiting on my ID. I continue to have a great distrust for the taxis here. To be safe, I carry very little money, nothing of value, and always put everything under my jacket. Those purses I brought from the states will never get used, looks like. I feel like I am constantly looking over my shoulder to make sure I am safe. I wonder if this feeling goes away here. With so many people telling me to be careful, to make sure I don’t walk where there a few people, and to avoid certain corners/streets it seems they, too, are always on guard. What a distressing way to live.

August 28, 2004
We had our monthly birthday party for the kids in El Milagro today. Around 80 kids showed up to enjoy the dancing, games, and birthday cake. It is always chaotic when you get that many kids in such a confined space. We had kids crying, fighting, and just making a mess of things. One thing that I have realized about most of the kids in our program is that they have little-to-no discipline. In USA Southern speak -- “they don’t mind”. It really doesn’t matter what I say or for that matter, what anyone says, they are going to do as they please. This can be very frustrating, especially when they also have sticky fingers. So if they aren’t getting into trouble, be on the lookout, they are probably looking for something to stick in their pockets to take home with them.

I came home for lunch and watched some of the Olympics with my mom and sister. I wish I could have seen more of the Games. I just love watching them.

After lunch, I decided to head to Huanchaco (the beach) since it was such a pretty day. The sun was actually shining! I took the bus and was immediately asked by the man sitting beside me if I was a tourist on my way to see the ruins. I gave my usual spiel about Peace Corps and YMCA. He went on to tell me that he and his wife had lived in the states and both taught English. He also said that his wife had some English material that she didn’t need and was looking for somewhere to donate it. I, of course, could use it. He was a very distinguished looking man, but as usual, I was on guard. It was daylight, he seemed sincere, and his house was right on the beach. I waited outside on the front porch with his mother-in-law, while he went in for the materials. It wasn’t long before his wife and daughters came to the porch to also meet me. I ended up staying and chatting with the family for over two hours. Just goes to show, I never know what/who I will encounter here.

August 27, 2004
On my way to El Milagro today, I watched the trash truck as it strolled through my neighborhood. It’s such a terrible job. The men have clothes tied over their faces to alleviate the smell. What I didn’t realize is that they unbag all the garbage as it is put on the truck. So, you have around 4 men just standing on top of this pile of garbage, emptying bags, as the people of the neighborhood deliver their household trash to the truck. I just couldn’t stop thinking how incredibly filthy their work is.

My English class went well. I only had 5 students, but they were an attentive group. We sang, “head, shoulders, knees, and toes” to go along with our “body parts” lesson.

As I pass my days here in Trujillo, at times I find myself wondering, “Do things seem normal to me here because it’s not that different from the US or am I simply adjusting to my new life?” I think it is the latter and that makes me glad. My visit home was good for my soul and made me once again appreciate my role here as a volunteer. I feel so much more settled here now. I feel so safe and comfortable in my home. My family treats me like a family member and I am making new friends everyday.

August 25, 2004
A group of 30 Italian volunteers visited our center in El Milagro today. The kids kept telling me that I had a twin in the group. She was blonde and that was the extent of our likeness, but to them we were twins. They were interested in seeing the landfill and to know about our work with the families that work there. I impressed them with my two-year commitment to El Milagro. They are only here for 6 weeks.

My counterpart and I talked about what we are going to do with the new youth group. The kids are interested in topics such as drugs, alcohol, sexuality, leadership, and sports. I thought their choice of topics were extremely liberal-minded. My counterpart even discussed providing them with birth control options. I hope to do more Niyelo activities and also organize a Taebo class with them.

My English Class went well; we did a coloring sheet about colors and sang a song.

I went to the gym and did the pilates class then the Taebo class. Made it home by 10:00, went to Internet, now I am busy watching a DVD.

August 23, 2004
I slept till noon, ate lunch with the family, and then just hung out in my room all afternoon. I am feeling more comfortable here. I was ok to just to chill and not feel the need to be busy, to keep my mind from making me homesick and sad. I want this to feel like home and it is beginning to be just that.

My site mate and I went with my family to visit their other house near the plaza. My dad keeps saying that we are going to move, but I really don’t think it is going to happen. He explained that he didn’t want me to pay rent that I was part of the family now, and rent wasn’t necessary. He also told me if I ever needed anything to just ask and act as if their home is my home. He wants me to tell my family that I am in good hands. I am so lucky to have found them.

August 22, 2004
I slept till noon and had lunch with my family. I tried to pay my rent, but they wouldn’t take it. They just thanked me for the gifts I brought back for them from home. So, for 2 months I have enjoyed a very comfortable place to live, food, companionship, personal tour guides, and I have paid absolutely nothing for it. All they say is don’t worry about it. So, I told them I wasn’t going to worry then. I guess they will let me know if/when I need to pay.

August 21, 2004
I got up this morning and finally unpacked my bags. I brought 85 pounds of stuff from the states to enjoy here! I now have too many clothes, lots of peanut butter & jelly, and flavored coffee creamer. My favorite is the worn-in t-shirt sheets (that smell like fabric softener) that I just put on my bed.

The youth group started out great! We had about 10 teens show up. We did 2 Niyelo activities that I led. It is so interesting that kids everywhere are just kids. The same issues that arose when I did these activities in my previous job showed up in today’s activities. Natural leaders become evident early, there is always someone who acts out for attention, and they often don’t realize the importance of non-verbal communication.

One of my favorite kids, I call him Charlie because he wanted an ‘English’ name, came by the center. He had just finished working for the day. He has his own business at the ripe, old age of 11. A super-intelligent kid, he is always challenging me and keeping me on my toes. He rents flip-flops and skirts to the women who visit the jail of El Milagro. There is a regulation that women can only enter the jail in skirt and sandals for ‘security’ reasons. Many women arrive and aren’t aware of this rule. For one sol, these women can rent Charlie’s flip-flops or skirts by the hour. Charlie is a wealth of information about the comings/goings of the jail. He knows when and who visits, including the police and inmate ‘girlfriends’. Sadly, many women of El Milagro support their families by prostituting. Charlie is so much older than his 11 years.

I met a friend at the gym and we went to her friend’s house. What I thought I was going to be a party was actually a meeting for a group of catholic missionaries. This group is forming to travel to the poorer areas of Trujillo. They welcomed me warmly and discussed plans for their group. We sang religious songs, said the Lord’s Prayer, and practiced their English. I then discovered that her friend was actually the priest of their church. He didn’t wear a priest’s clothes but was in normal attire. We joked and laughed until well after midnight. It was a good experience for me. Growing up Southern Baptist in a small, rural area of the USA, I recognize I have developed an incorrect stereotypical image of Catholicism. I realize that this group of people that I find myself lucky to have as new friends, love the Lord, praise Him, and welcome all into their fold. It was unimportant that I am Baptist, they were happy to have me in their midst.

The world is so small! One of the guys actually knows one of my volunteer friends in Cajamarca. He had heard about Peace Corps through the agency where my fellow volunteer is currently working. He is a psychologist here in Trujillo and works with drug addicts and abandoned children. We discussed the idea of a volunteer being placed in his agency. It is crazy to think, that at 1:00 in the morning when I was just thanking my lucky stars that I have finally found some friends here in this crazy country, I can actually consider this hanging out and socializing as my work as a volunteer. Where else in the world can you find a job like this? No where, I tell you!

August 20, 2004
I returned to El Milagro this morning. It was like I had never left. The kids didn’t even mention that I had been gone. We picked up right where we had left off. What a relief, I had this trepidation that they would think I had returned to the USA to never return to Peru. I showed off my new photos from my trip home and recounted my adventures and my misfortunes in Lima.

In the afternoon, I met my co-worker at the YMCA office to plan a youth group. We are going to start a group for teenagers in El Milagro. Our first activity is tomorrow afternoon. I am in charge of 2 activities.

I went to the gym after my meeting. I did the spinning class, then Taebo. I made plans with a friend to go out with her and her friends tomorrow night.

August 19, 2004
I made it to Trujillo around 7:00 am this morning. My host brother was waiting for me. We made it home for breakfast with the family. I slept the rest of the day away. Not sure if it was from being tired from my journey or just exhausted from a week of emotional situations. I hung out with my site mate so we could catch up; then we went to the movies to see Will Smith’s, I, Robot. Even my taste in movies is changing here in Peru, before I would never have been able to watch something that scary. It was pretty good.

I find that I have an intense fear of taking taxies -- probably not unfounded. I made it home in one piece with all my possessions intact. Thank goodness!

August 18, 2004
I had a medical check-up this morning. I have had some weird feet swelling going on… not sure about that one. The PCMO checked my vitals, my urine, and my blood and really couldn’t find anything, except that my cholesterol is HIGH again. That would probably be because I no longer take my medicine. Guess I have to start taking it again.

I spent the rest of the morning trying to replace my stolen articles: my Peace Corps ID card, my cell phone, my money, and my bank cards. Thankfully, my passport and driver’s license was safely in the office safe.

I have been staying with an Embassy lady and she is so sweet. She has been so supportive and generous. I have enjoyed her food, TV, and hot water. I spent the entire afternoon on the couch, catching up on Young and the Restless, chatting on IM, and reading.

I am nervous about returning to my site. I am heading to Trujillo tonight at 10:15 pm.

August 17, 2004
I’m back in Lima. It wasn’t as much of a shock or as hard as I thought it would be to return to Peru. I think because my trip home helped me see once again, that for now, my life is here. This is what I am supposed to be doing, that I am sure of.

I met up with some other volunteers who are here in Lima for an arts exhibit at the Embassy. They have brought in their Peruvian counterparts and their artwork to sell to Embassy employees. We met for dinner at a nice place in Miraflores. On the way home, in our taxi, we were robbed at gun-point! The taxi driver pulled out a pistol and demanded our things. Thank goodness, we were unharmed, just scared and abandoned. We had to walk about 15 minutes to the house where we were staying; we called PC and they escorted us to the police station to make a report.

What I find extremely ironic is that I happen to live in an unsafe area of Trujillo, I definitely work in the most dangerous area of Trujillo, and I go to Lima and dine/stay in the nicest area of town and I get robbed.

August 16, 2004
This last week at home in picturesque, summer-time Georgia has been a whirlwind of activity.

I have visited, shopped, and simply enjoyed my little piece of America to my heart’s content. I got a pedicure and manicure; walked around Wal-Mart for hours; tried out the homemade rope swing on Lake Chatuge; at Mexican food twice; watched MTV, HGTV, and TLC (all my favorites); downloaded current music; shopped in Old Navy and Bath & Body Works; took a glorious bath with the latest Nora Robert’s smut book in hand; ate fresh veggies and burgers with Mom on her new front porch; drove around on Grandmama’s farm, just appreciating the greenery, the beauty of the Northeast Georgia mountains; ate gravy & biscuits and black eyed peas at my aunts’ houses; drove over Unicoi Gap with my windows rolled down and my tunes up loud.

God Bless the USA.

August 10, 2004
Mom and my brother picked me up from the airport in Atlanta. How great it is to see them! I’m in the states – where efficiency is expected and attained. I am normal, I blend in to the surroundings, and my bunny suit has been abandoned in Trujillo. We stopped for breakfast at Shoney’s. I am craving meat -- lots of it. I find the over-stuffed breakfast bar hurts my heart. The food on our table alone would find my kiddies in El Milagro for weeks to come. We as Americans are accustomed to things in excess, ‘all you can eat’ breakfast bars, ‘super-sized’ meals, ‘bottomless’ refills, ‘economy’ sized products, I could go on and on I guess.

I drove us to Helen, Georgia; not bad for 6 months without driving a vehicle. We arrived home around noon; just time enough to shower and dress for Papa’s funeral. I struggled to find something to wear. Peru has agreed with me, in the form of 10 extra pounds.

I struggled to suppress my guilty feelings as Mom recounted the events of the last couple of days. Papa’s peaceful and beautiful passing – everybody was there except me.

The funeral was difficult, harder than I thought it would be. I was glad to be there for Mom.

August 9, 2004
I am making flight arrangements to get to Georgia. It is outrageously expensive -- $1500. My flight is at midnight. That means I have to chill in Lima for the day. Thankfully, two other volunteers are here for medical reasons, so we went to Jockey Plaza for lunch and a little ‘looking around’.

I showered at the PCMO’s house, had dinner, and took a taxi to the airport. This is too much. I hate all this traveling and waiting around. I just want to be ‘beamed’ home.

I was upgraded to first class. Champagne, anyone? Flying in comfort is great, but it is still impossible to get a good night’s sleep in a plane seat.

Monday, August 09, 2004

August 8, 2004
Emergency at home! My grandfather just passed away. I am making preparations to leave, so I can be with my family.

After hours of searching, I finally found a bus ticket to Lima. I leave at 11:00 pm tonight. I was getting worried!

August 7, 2004
Today was the health campaign in El Milagro. I was up there all day from 9:00 this morning to 7:00 in the evening. I barely got to stop for lunch. I was the ‘pharmacist’. The families of El Milagro come to our Health Campaign to receive free doctor’s visits and free medicines. Prescription drugs are extremely easy to obtain here, you are supposed to have a prescription, but can usually walk up to any drug store and get anything you want. ACJ keeps a supply of prescription drugs on hand for the Health Campaign. It was my job to give the correct medicines to each person. It was great practice for me because I got to speak with each family, learn their names, and learn a little bit about medicine too. I was invited to church by one mother with her next weekend. The church they attend is a evangelistic church; a result of huge missionary influence in El Milagro. I look forward to attending.

After work, I met with my new friend Karla and we went to a discoteca to dance. It was my first experience with dancing in Trujillo. We had a great time! I am so glad to have a real Peruvian friend.

August 6, 2004
I tried out the step class this morning at the gym – not for me. It was too slow. Afterwards, a couple stopped me on my way out and they had the usual questions for me. Where are you from? Why are you here? After introductions, I realized that they also work at the gym and speak pretty good English. We then got into a conversation about how Peruvians are exploited in jobs abroad. They had worked for Carnival Cruises last year and barely lived to tell about it. They left Peru with the promise of good wages for a good job. They said that they were worked to death for little money. (Less than $100 a month, for 16-hour days, 7 days a week.) Then they went on to say that as Peruvians with college educations they could only work in the US or Europe as maids or laborers, not as professionals. It was a very enlightening conversation for me. They were very sincere and unobtrusive, yet very truthful. It made me almost ashamed to know that I had been on a cruise line where these very people had been exploited.

August 4, 2004
I got up early this morning and went to the 7:00 am Taebo class. Afterwards, I went with my new friend, Lourdes, to go to the English Institute of Trujillo. She takes English classes there and I was hoping to volunteer in the Conversation Club. However, the director was out of town, so we are going back on Monday. We returned to the gym and had juice with the guys at the juice bar. Everyday at 2:00 pm, children from a group home come to the gym to have Taebo class. Since this sounds like a perfect counterpart for a future volunteer, I asked my friends to show me the group home. We visited and I spoke with the Director and she was overjoyed to hear about Peace Corps and actually begged for a volunteer. I told her I would pass the information along to Lima. I finally made it to El Milagro around 11:00 where I helped some kids with a crossword puzzle race, then organized the office. I ate lunch with a friend named Carla that I had met at the gym. She speaks great English. After lunch, I checked email, and then returned home to chill for a couple of hours. At 8:00, I went back to the gym for another Taebo class. After Taebo, I went with Carla to her friend’s house where I met more people. It has been a good day.

August 3, 2004
I got up early this morning to meet the Peace Corps staff for my site visit. The purpose of the visit is to meet my family, see my work, and just make sure I am safe and healthy. My family was so great! They talked with PC staff and saw my room. Then we went to El Milagro to view my work. Overall, I think they were pleased with my work as a volunteer. I have to admit I was a bit worried that they would tell me I wasn’t doing enough. A great thing I realized during this visit is that PC staff is super supportive and they want you to be happy. As long as you are trying to get to know your community and applying yourself in your work, they are content.

August 2, 2004
Today is Counterpart Day. Peace Corps staff from Lima is here in Trujillo to have a workshop with my counterpart and to do a site visit. Mostly to clear up any doubts anyone has about Peace Corps role in Trujillo’s YMCA and to see how I am faring. All my coworkers from El Milagro came to the workshop and said some great things about my work in the center.

At 5:00, I had a meeting with YMCA to coordinate the events of the week. Then at 7:00 pm, I met up with the Peace Corps staff to eat dinner. We ate at Romano’s, my favorite café. I was home by 10:00pm, but can not sleep because I am so nervous about my site visit tomorrow.

August 1, 2004
I got in to Trujillo this morning around 5:30 am, to find that I had left my keys in Piura. I had to wake up my family to let me into my room. I slept to nearly 2:00 pm, had lunch at 3:00 pm, and then went with my site mate into town for a little shopping and internet. We swapped vacation stories, ate dinner, and then headed home. I just finished “Cold Mountain” – great film, sad but excellent.

July 31, 2004
I just spent the last week in Piura, up near Ecuador. PC gave us 4 free vacation days because it is Independence Holiday here in Peru, so I decided to head to the beach and sun. I met up with other volunteers from Cajamarca and Piura. We traveled to Mancora, a cute little beach town in very northern Peru. We stayed at the only place we could find that wasn’t outrageously expensive. It was very basic, with a shared bathroom, 4 single beds to a room, but in a great location. We got great tans, ate Ceviche (great raw fish dish typical to Peru), went out at night, spoke English, and just generally had a fantastic time. I also spent 2 days in Piura, the capital of the department, with a couple other volunteers. I traveled to Catacaos, a big artisan area, and bought a great leather handbag and some pottery. We had great food, great shopping, and great times together. I needed the break from normal PC life. Now it is back to life as a PCV.

July 23, 2004
I had the opportunity to play basketball today! It was great. I met up with some friends from the gym at an outdoor court and played for a couple of hours.

July 22, 2004
I slept in this morning. I had a peanut butter and jelly sandwich for breakfast. I think I have probably eaten pb&j as often here in PC as I did when I was a kid.

Around 12:00 pm I ventured to the computer café, at 2:00 pm I had lunch with the family, and at 4:00 pm I went into Trujillo for a workshop at the YMCA office. One of my coworkers, a psychologist, attended a workshop in Lima and wanted to ‘train’ us as well. The focus of the workshop was personal space and boundaries. We did activities that involved drawing, coloring, and playing with play-doe. I did not really agree with some of the conclusions that my coworkers drew. For example, we were asked to pick a crayon, paying particular attention to which color we chose. After we chose our color, my coworker explained what each color said about our particular personality. If you chose red then she said you had a lot of aggression. If you chose yellow, a lot of happiness. She didn’t explain that the color definitions were just theories, but tried to convince the entire group that this was always accurate. Another coworker didn’t agree with what her color said about her and this caused a heated discussion, yet the workshop leader could not be dissuaded from her views. It was an interesting meeting; it lasted for about 3 hours.

Afterwards, I went to the gym. Taebo rocked, as usual. There is always variety, which is great. I have some new ‘torture’ techniques for when I get back to coaching.

I have to say, besides the fact that the exercise is good, the gym has warm (notice I didn’t say hot) showers and that in itself is enough to keep me coming back for more!

July 21, 2004
I could barely get out of the bed this morning, I was so sore! Taebo is kicking my butt. I went to work around 10:30 am. Only a couple of kids were in the center. I played cards with Edwin, a really cool little dude. He is such a clown, always making a joke or making fun of my Spanish. Lunch was so-so with mashed potatoes, rice, and fish. I am trying to work up the courage to tell my Peruvian Mom to give me less rice or, hey, none at all. I just don’t want to hurt her feelings. I told my family about my Taebo class and even gave them a demonstration. They got a real 'kick' out of it.

I returned to El Milagro around 3:00 pm to visit another school with my counterpart. This particular school was humongous and very different from the first one we visited. At the door, the teacher was very hesitant about allowing us to visit and talk with the teachers. We were finally allowed in and were bombarded by kids. It was recess time and all 1300 kids were in the courtyard. It was a sight! Of course, every single one of them turned toward me, the new Gringa. I recognized a few faces. The bravest of the curious came up to me to ask my name, where I am from, the usuals. We visited with the teachers who have students that are in the YMCA program. Generally speaking, the kids are allowed to run wild. It is up to them to stay in their classroom and do their work. The students realize that not all kids are able to attend school, thus appreciate their place in the classroom. Which I guess is good thing in a way. The kids appreciate their opportunity to learn. It is just so terrible that not all kids have the right to an education. Many can’t afford the required school uniforms, books, and supplies.

I went to the gym again. Hopefully, I am developing a routine. I used the weights for half an hour then did Taebo for an hour. Taebo is great! What a stress reliever to be able to act like you are punching and kicking someone. I felt like I was back in basketball conditioning, except I wasn’t the one doing all the yelling. The instructor had us running laps, ‘running our motors’, doing push ups and crunches. If only my basketball girls could have seen me work!

July 20, 2004
My Spanish class this morning only had two students. I am not complaining though; it is so much easier to actually get something accomplished. We talked about family and learned a few new vocabulary words. My afternoon class was loco! I had over 20 kids and we ‘attempted’ to have our class at the same time as a mother’s meeting. We were packed on this little table in the corner with very little space. Everyone kept telling us to keep quiet, but the kids were rambunctious. It was a true test of my patience, I have to admit. I wanted to scream. The kids have this winy voice they use when they want something and it was grating on my nerves! Many of them have problems working alone and feel they must copy everything exactly. They don’t really understand the term ‘creativity’. All and all I think my lesson was a hit. All the kids were showing off their family trees to their moms.

I headed to the gym after work to workout. I first attended the Pilates class. Not for me, I was dying. I made it through it, but just barely. (Too slow and too ‘abdominal’ intense for me.) At 8:00 pm, I showed up for the Taebo class. What great fun. I loved it. I have never done Taebo before, not even in the states. I was beat after the hour workout. Before I could get out of the gym, the Taebo instructor introduced himself and asked me the usuals. I told him about my work with the YMCA and he says that he too works with abandoned kids in downtown. They come to the gym 3 days a week for activities. I told him I would like to visit his program. I think that would be a great secondary project for me.

July 19, 2004
Since I feel 100 percent again, I joined a gym bright and early this morning. I worked out for about 45 minutes with weights. Afterwards, I went with my brother to Trujillo to buy a few things. We were back to the house by 2:00 pm for lunch. The weekly YMCA meeting was at 4:00 and lasted until 8:30 pm. I was in bed by 11:00.

July 18, 2004
Thank goodness I feel better! My fever is gone. I woke up and realized I had slept through the night. Still think I will take it slow today, just in case. I went to Trujillo to buy my bus ticket to Piura for the end of the month. I am going to the beach! Some of my fellow volunteers and I are going to celebrate the Peruvian Independence Day in Mancora, a city very north of here, right on the Ecuador border.

After lunch with the family, we walked to the appliance repair shop. Their computer monitor is broken. My dad was full of questions about how much housing costs in the states and what it’s like to live in the country.

Tuesday, July 20, 2004

July 17, 2004
I woke up at 11:45 am.  The last 3 days have been a real blur.  I have been sick, unusually sick.  I have had a fever around 101°-102°F, have been SO tired with extreme body aches, and with (the lovely) diarrhea.  I called the PCMO yesterday and she said that I probably picked up a virus and the only thing to do is drink lots of water, take fever reducer, and rest.  Well, that is what I have been doing; hopefully by tomorrow I will feel more like myself.  I have slept more in 3 days than I usually sleep in 2 weeks.
 
July 16, 2004
I woke up with a fever but felt like I could probably make it to El Milagro for my English classes.  I didn’t shower or anything just threw on some clothes and grabbed the combi.  Sure enough, I had a couple of kids waiting to begin my class.  I had 5 kids in total and we studied numbers and colors, sang 2 songs, and played Uno.  I also had some time to work on my next lesson plan:  we are going to learn family titles and make family trees from old magazines.  I think they will enjoy it.  I talked with my counterpart and we decided that I could wait until Tuesday for my other class, since the afternoon class is one lesson ahead anyway.  That way, on Tuesday I will be giving the same lesson twice.
 
I was home by 2:00 pm for lunch.  My family insisted that I not be out in the cold (make my sickness worse), and that I drink lots of hot drinks like tea.  Fine by me, I like tea, but I am not so sure it has as much medicinal strength as they seem to think that it does. 
 
Returned to my room around 2:30 pm and slept until 9:00 pm.  I drank more tea with my family, and then was back in bed by 11:00 pm.  I hope I feel better soon.  I am sleeping my life away!
 
July 15, 2004
I hung out in El Milagro all day today.  I worked on lesson plans in the morning and in the afternoon I went with one of my counterparts to the local public primary school where many of our kids attend.  The building itself was relatively nice and looked new, all made of cement and with paint.  There was a play area with soccer goals and volleyball net.  A bathroom and a 2 story school building with 12 classrooms.  We arrived there around 3:30, in time for their recess.  What was a bit surprising was the director was just arriving also.  My counterpart told me this was a common complaint of the parents:  the tardiness of all the teachers.  The purpose of the visit was to check on the progress of the kids in our program and offer a workshop to the teachers on a specific topic like boundaries, self esteem, rights/legislation, etc.  This school, very recently, had a sexual abuse scandal between a female student and male teacher.  The YMCA is helping the family of the girl pursue the case in court.  We interviewed each of the four teachers that work in the afternoons.  There are 2 sessions of classes; one session in the afternoon for the youngest classes and a session in the afternoon for the oldest classes.  I couldn’t believe the number of students in each class:  45-60 in each classroom.  That is crazy!  How could just one teacher do it?  Many of the classrooms in the building are standing empty, because the government won’t pay for more teachers. 
 
We walked back to the center with a family of our program.  Just goes to show, I can always find a little friend to ‘escort’ me around El Milagro… hand in hand the whole way.  They ask us at Peace Corps, “If you had to leave today, what would you miss most about your site?”  I would definitely miss the most my little kiddies and their unconditional love and affection.
 
I got back to my house to find my site mate waiting on my doorstep.  It’s Harry Potter 3 day!  Today it comes out in the cinema here and I promised her I would go with her to see it.  We invited my brother, since he has to go into town anyway to buy his bus ticket.  So, we went into Trujillo, bought our movie tickets for the 9:00 show, and then ate pizza.  The whole time I was so extremely hot.  I was convinced I had a fever, so we stopped by the pharmacy.  I asked for something for fever and a head ache and she just says “60 cents, please.”  I have learned by now, not to trust these establishments, so I asked what type of medicine.  She hands me something that I’d never seen, with what looked to me to have the ingredients of an anti-inflammatory.  So, I asked for another medicine.  She game me something which had Tylenol as an ingredient but combined with other things, so I asked for the Tylenol by itself in 500 mgs.  Twenty-three cents lighter, we left the pharmacy with me thinking, these people don’t have a clue. 
 
In the movie, I couldn’t keep my eyes open.  I slept through most of it… I am definitely sick.
July 13, 2004
I got into Trujillo around 8:00, came home and slept to around 11:00 am.  I am having a tough time getting back into the groove of things here in Trujillo.  Amazing how my mentality can be affected by just a weekend in Lima.  Imagine what it will do to me, when I visit the states.  I have all the feelings of being a bad volunteer because I am not doing enough or being competent enough.  I think it is the guilt of wanting to live with modern conveniences, yet knowing to be a good volunteer I have to give up some of those. 
 
My missionary friends have given me a week guest pass to the country club, so I enjoyed the workout machines, the pool, and hot shower before I went into El Milagro for the afternoon session with my kiddies.    

July 12, 2004
I got up at 10:00 to my cell phone alarm, went into the kitchen to put my clothes in the dryer, to find the maid already doing my laundry.  What a way to live.  She ironed my clothes, cleaned the house, and then made us fresh squeezed orange juice.  My taxi to the bus terminal was coming at 11:00, but I decided to change my ticket to Trujillo to the 11:00 PM trip.  What are another 12 hours living “normal” with modern appliances, carpeting, hot water, and cable TV?  So far, I have been able to watch American news channels, What Not To Wear (my favorite!), and MTV; eat grilled chicken salads and order Pizza Hut; wash and dry all my clothes; take a bath in a bathtub (and shave!).  I would rather be able to sleep on the eight hours home anyway.  I called my counterpart to let her know I would be at El Milagro tomorrow for my English class and then called a few people in the states, just to say hello.  Emily leaves at 6:00 pm this afternoon and I leave at 10:00 for the bus terminal. 
 
My bus didn’t leave until 11:30.  I didn’t have any problems falling asleep.  I think I am getting used to this form of travel.
 
July 11, 2004
I made it back to Emily’s home stay by 11:00 am and we decided to just bum around the apartment all afternoon.  We cooked sausage, ate cereal, and made ‘real’ coffee.  Since, Lina had already left to head back to her site, I spoke with Veronica and I am going to stay with Emily at her place.  We ventured to Jockey Plaza around 5:00 am where we shopped, had Starbucks (where I bought a coffee press), and then watched Spiderman 2 in the cinema.  We got back home around midnight and stayed up till 2:00 am watching TV and reading.  It has been such a relaxing weekend here in Lima.  There is definitely culture shock in enjoying this side of life in Lima, especially in a country where the huge majority lives in poverty. 
 
I am heading back to Trujillo tomorrow at 12:00 pm.  Back to PC life…
 
July 10, 2004
I got into Lima around 7:00 am this morning.  Veronica, a secretary at Peace Corps, picked me up at the terminal, and then we went to her house.  I am staying with her this weekend.  They have a really nice place, in a ritzy area of Lima.  Wanting to see my buddies, Veronica took me to where they were staying.  What a great reunion!  It is great to see my training buddies.  They are staying with an American lady who works for the Embassy.  She has a nice 3 bedroom apartment where she gave us the run of the place.  We cooked, showered, watched TV as if we were in our own home.  I am a bit sad that I have to stay in the other house, but we will hang out while we can.  At 2:00 we went to the Peace Corps office for the VAC meeting.  Definitely, the longest American meeting I have sat through since coming to Peru.  We were there for almost 5 hours.  Gratefully, the meeting was interesting in that we discussed many topics that involved the struggles and challenges of PCVs, PC regulations, future meetings, and budgetary concerns.  After the meeting, we headed back to the apartment to eat dinner and change for a night out in Lima.  We met up with some of the guys for a trip to Barronco.      

July 7, 2004
I head to Lima on Friday to represent Trujillo Volunteers at the Volunteer Advisory Committee meeting.  Some of my favorite pals from Piura, Cajamarca, and Ancash are coming too, so I am excited to get a couple of days to hang out with them.  I had to go into Trujillo this morning to buy my bus ticket.  I am taking the most expensive bus that they say is a bus with beds.  We will see.  I am not getting my hopes up; I know how Peru can over exaggerate.  Hopefully, I will be pleasantly surprised.  I also bought a nightstand for my room at the Mayorista Market.  The prices are so cheap there and you can see the carpenter’s making the furniture.  I had lunch at home: fish, rice, beans, and salad. 
 
After lunch, I went to El Milagro for the afternoon session with the kids.  I made another sign to announce my upcoming English classes.  I am sure I will have a crowd on Friday because at the same time there is a Mother’s Club meeting and the mother’s will inevitably bring their kids.  After work, my counterpart and I went to the medical clinic in El Milagro to attend a meeting.  We waited around for about 30 minutes, but no one showed up.  Who knows?  So, we left and visited with a family that the YMCA is helping -- a very touchy situation with this family.  To the best of my understanding, the YMCA is assisting this family with a charge against a school teacher for sexual abuse. 
 
A situation with YMCA that I have observed that I am still trying to understand is their relationship with a group called INABIF.  INABIF is practically Peru’s Department of Family and Children’s Services.  INABIF shares the center space with us, they work with the same kids, and generally do the same stuff that YMCA does with kids of El Milagro.  However, INABIF and YMCA do not coordinate their activities together.  For example, INABIF also celebrates birthdays of the kids (separate from YMCA).  It is not unusual to show up at the center and realize that you can’t do an activity that YMCA has planned because INABIF has already started a workshop with the kids or vice versa.  To me, this is an easily solved problem – why not have a weekly coordination meeting with INABIF and YMCA?  Work together besides working separately.  This is one of my ulterior goals as a volunteer in El Milagro.  I would love to help make this relationship between agencies more efficient.   
 
I made my way home around 8:00, cooked myself some pasta with tomato sauce, and then went to the internet café.  I discovered how to use web cam on the instant messenger.  Too cool!  People can see me at home and if they have web cam I can see them.  Technology in this day and age is really just growing leaps and bounds.
 
July 6, 2004
I pulled the morning and afternoon shifts at the center again today.  This morning was a bit frustrating.  None of the kids showed up for my English class.  No one thought to tell me that all the kids had to march in a parade celebrating El Milagro’s anniversary.  So, instead I went to the Plaza of El Milagro and watched the kids march and enjoyed the festivities of the celebration.  I had fun chatting with the moms of the project I saw and with some of the kids too. 
 
After lunch, I returned to the center for my afternoon English class.  I was fortunate to have 12 kids attend my second English class ever.  Today’s lesson was about colors and numbers which lead us into 3 intense games of UNO.  The kids really had fun, I think, but who doesn’t like playing UNO, right?
 
Returned home, did internet for a while, cleaned up my room, then off to bed.
 
July 4, 2004
Today is my nation’s Independence Day.  My family remembered and gave me a hug in remembrance and I listened to Martina McBride’s tribute to our freedom and that is about it.  We had a cookout here on the roof of the house.  My dad set up a grill and we had steaks, pork, and chicken.  Boy, it was great.  The steaks were excellent.  I didn’t even know that you could buy meat like that here in Peru.  Afterwards, my dad, mom, brother and I went downtown to walk around.  Nestle promoters were giving out free Sublimes (chocolate candy bars) in the Plaza – first I’d seen of that.  Something free!  Then we had Chinese, stopped by the grocery store for a few things, and then headed home.  We sat around the living room chatting for awhile and I came upstairs to finish my book.  Happy 4th!  I missed seeing fireworks. 
 
July 3, 2004
All the folks in El Milagro went on a fieldtrip today and I believe it was the best day I have had yet!  We loaded 2 huge buses with over 80 people – moms, dads, grandparents, and kids and headed an hour away to the foothills of the mountains to an area that boasts of two pools, a playground, soccer field, and volleyball court.  The kids didn’t waste anytime in jumping in the pool.  The owner of the establishment announced that all swimmers must have a bathing suit to get in the pool and they must shower first.  Many of the kids didn’t have bathing suits, most made due with their underwear with little regard for modesty.  The shear happiness on their faces was something I wouldn’t have missed for the world.  To escape from the landfill for a day to relax at picnic tables on grass, snooze on the lounge chairs, or play with the attractions was a real treat for everyone. 
 
Several situations arose that I felt I have grown as an individual by being able to witness them – 
One was this boy, about 12 years old.  He has a severe speech impediment and he came all alone on the field trip.  Most kids came with at least one relative.  He was very dirty in ill-fitting clothes, he couldn’t button or zip his pants they were so small, his toes were poking out the tips of his shoes, and his shirt was in tatters.  He didn’t get into the pool at first; he just stood with us adults not saying anything.  He slowly made his way until he was standing directly inside our little circle.  Cautiously, he finally asked my coworker, after several attempts for she couldn’t understand him well, if it would be ok for him to swim in his underwear.  She said yes that would be fine, but he would have to shower first.  An outdoor shower was right beside the pool for this purpose.  He obviously had never showered before, nor had he ever been in a pool.  After he become accustomed to the feel of the water, you could tell he loved it!  The sheer exhilaration on his face has made this entire experience for me.  He played and jumped around in the pool for hours.  He touched my heart yet again at lunch time.  YMCA personnel were fed by the club’s restaurant and the family’s brought their lunch.  I thought randomly, as I bit into my second helping of duck, rice, and beans, if everyone remembered to bring their lunch.  Just as we were finishing and starting to stand from the table, the same boy approached our table.  He just stood there and one of my coworkers asked if he had had lunch.  He shook his head no and she promptly combined our leftovers on one plate and he sat and dug in.  I felt so incredibly guilty at that moment in time.  To have been enjoying good food and conversation with my coworkers, while this little boy, all alone and hungry waited for us to finish, so he could beg for our leftovers. 

I also came to realize that the YMCA personnel keep themselves at a safe distance from becoming emotionally involved with the people of the project.  They did very little to integrate into the activities of the families on the fieldtrip.  I was a bit lost in where I was to fit into the picture.  I found I was most happy dancing with the moms, or playing volleyball with the teenage girls, or sitting on the ground with the little girls all in my lap or hanging on my shoulders, or singing silly songs with the boys.  It was somewhat uncomfortable to be associated as an employee of the YMCA because of the distance they put between themselves and the families of El Milagro.
 
Another experience I will never forget is the delight the kids and parents get by having their picture taken.  I didn’t quite understand the hysteria at first, for when I take out my camera I am hounded to death!  But I realize now, that they will never have the pleasure of owning a camera or taking photos of their life’s experiences.  The mom’s shyly asked me to take photos of their babies and hesitantly told me they would pay me for the photos.  The things that we take for granted, how many they are!  The simple joy of being able to document our lives -- the people of El Milagro don’t have this same luxury. 
 
After lunch, we also held a birthday party for the kids who had birthdays in June.  We brought out 2 huge cakes and every kid got a bag of fruit and a hard boiled egg.  I was in charge of handing out the fruit and eggs.  They all lined up and not so patiently awaited their turn to receive their gifts.  I felt like Santa!  The kids were so happy to get their food.  Many lingered at the end to see if there were any leftovers and their little voices begging (for an apple, an orange, or a hard boiled egg) will probably haunt me forever.
 
I expect the unexpected and I am still surprised.  A little boy was crying and moaning with a stomach ache after we finished with the birthday festivities.  His mother promptly began pulling his hair out!  With both hands, she was pulling fists-full of hair out of his head.  It was later explained to me that this is ‘supposed’ to help with a stomach ache.  My way of thinking is that yes, it helps.  It helps you forget your stomach ache and you then cry because your head hurts.
 
You know, there was a time back when I was so scared of ever returning to El Milagro, that the thought brought me to tears.  In fact, at the end of my first day there, I swore I would never return.  I mistakenly thought the fright and nervousness would never go away and that I would never get used to the trash.  I may never get used to the odor or ever feel completely safe walking alone, but to think I would have missed the utter joy of a sweetly smiling face with dirty little arms squeezing my neck in a huge hug me making me feel like the richest woman on earth. 

So, today on this fieldtrip to the countryside with these families that lack so much, who enjoy life and friendship, who offer so much love to me -- I feel truly blessed.