Saturday, January 15, 2005

Back to Peru

January 15, 2005
I got up this morning again to run. The stadium was closed. I am not sure why; maybe because it was 8:45 am on a Saturday morning. So, I just ran around the outside of the stadium – seven full laps. There were a couple others running as well. On my walk home, I stopped to buy a slice of watermelon and pineapple from a little street vendor. I am sure that the conditions aren’t sanitary, but the fruit is always absolutely delicious.

I took a shower using my hot water, even though it is a constant 80 degrees in my room (even at midnight), with my fan blowing the air around. Maybe in a few days, I will just chill off in a cold shower, but for now I love the hot water. I can’t even complain about the weather, it is ‘right up my alley’ and I am loving every sweat drop that falls!

As I was getting ready to go to work, my host brother, an accountant, invited me to meet one of his clients that is working with a new NGO in Huanchaco. The man was older and seemed important. He told me of this group that wants to help a poor area of town with free schooling and breakfast. He invited me to see the location at that very moment, so we boarded his private car. I know, I was a little nervous, at first. Just getting into a car of a man I have known ten minutes is a little risky. But my host family is friends with him, so I told myself I would be fine. We ventured to Huanchaco to a desolate area beside the main highway where we met with a priest who is in charge of this new project. They showed me the locale and told me of their hopes for the project: a new food pantry, a new health center, and a school. It looks like a good start to a needed community service. Suddenly it dawned on me that they wanted me to help them financially. I explained to them that I can’t offer any financial assistance, but could possible recommend a volunteer be placed there. We exchanged emails/phone numbers and said we would be in contact. I think I may even return tomorrow to a breakfast they are sponsoring for the community.

When I returned my host brother told me that the man was indeed important and was a journalist from the biggest newspaper in Peru. Oh great, I thought. I will probably be in the newspaper tomorrow with a huge headline that reads, “Gringa Gives Tons of Money to New Youth Project” or something else just as false. They did take of photo of us looking at the new property.

Since I haven’t mentioned much about my new host family – I am now living in a three story home, as before. In the first floor, lives the lady of the house with her husband. I haven’t met him yet, but the lady is precious. She is so sweet and caring. I live on the second floor behind the brother’s accountant’s office. He has graciously given me permission to use his office phone/internet whenever the need arises. He has a sweet secretary who is always present; who he said can take phone messages for me when I am out. Behind my room, at the end of the hall, lives my host brother with is family. He is married and has two little babies, one that is two years old and the other that is four months old. Above us, in the third floor, live various students. They rent single rooms and attend the university. I am paying 300 soles per month for rent (that’s kind of high) and for 33 more soles a month I can have cable TV. I may have to just do that. First, I have to buy a TV.

January 14, 2005
I have had a great day today, mostly, because I was able to get into somewhat of a routine that makes me happy. I got up at 8:00 am and decided to run. My first run since before Christmas. I headed over to the stadium (a huge soccer field surrounded by a track) and asked if I could run. The guy at the gate said I had to get permission from the office. At the office, I paid 10 soles for an entrance card for this month. When I got back to the stadium, the guy at the gate said I had signed up for the track team! He says it’s free to use the stadium for running, but I had paid to be a part of the team. Since the team was comprised of adolescents, I told him I just wanted to run. He smiled and advised me not to pay next month. My run was great! I even ran some steps. It was just like being back at home when I ran in high school. No one stared at me nor thought it weird that a woman was exercising. I didn’t even have one cat-call the whole time.

I made my breakfast of bacon and fruit and then headed to El Milagro. The kids were excited to see me and I talked with my counterparts about things that had been happening. Seems, I have a busy schedule coming up. With the school kids out of classes for the summer, they really need activities to keep them occupied. I am also coordinating an international project with a sorority sister of mine back in the states. She is a member of the Rotary and will be donating $1000 to El Milagro. I can’t even imagine us getting that kind of money here. My counterparts are super excited and started rambling off what we could buy with the money – books, materials, bookcases, and the list just goes on and on. My job is to get in contact with a particular Rotary Club here and coordinate with them about the funds.

Another activity that I have going on with work is teaching how to make earrings. I have been able to have two sessions and it is a huge hit. The mothers especially love it and they like the end product, a pair of cute earrings to wear home. I need to think of other things we can make as a group, something that can make them a profit. I need to consult my books.

I came back to my house for lunch and cooked myself a chicken breast and salad. I have a small refrigerator that is absolutely a God-send. I am able to keep my food fresher longer. Yet another thing I have taken for granted.

I returned again to El Milagro in the afternoon and played basketball with the kids. Another volunteer was also there; he is from Germany and here in Peru for a year. We played sports with the kids. He is going to be visiting with us in the afternoons.

So, I have encountered another issue with my place – the stuff I bought to kill the cockroaches works great. I woke up to a bunch of dead cockroaches in my floor. However, I also encountered some ant-like bugs eating the dead cockroaches, hundreds of them. It’s a catch-22! I kill the cockroaches, I get bugs.

While I was at home in the states, I got a pedometer (a little device that measures how far you walk that straps to your belt). I walked 3.83 miles today.

January 13, 2005
Today is the first day that I have been able to sleep later than 7:00 since I got here to Trujillo. I have desperately needed the rest too. I have been running on fumes for the last couple of days. Peace Corps held a basic computer skills workshop for youth in Trujillo this week. All the volunteers from my group, along with a youth representative, came to Trujillo for 3 days. We all stayed in a super nice hotel near the plaza and had computer training in the Da Vinci Computer Institute. I was able to bring 2 teens from El Milagro, a girl and a boy. They were absolutely overwhelmed with everything. Their eyes were as big as saucers when we arrived. I couldn’t believe that they had never left El Milagro! They had never seen an elevator, felt hot water from a shower, ate in a restaurant, or walked around the plaza. We spent an hour just exploring the hotel. They touched everything and just giggled and giggled. It was great to be able to be with the kids as they enjoyed for the first time the things we take for granted. Most importantly, they got to learn how to use a computer, including instant messenger and email. Hopefully, this will brighten their futures.

I took the kids home to El Milagro last night around 9:00 pm by taxi. The entire neighborhood was locked up with huge metal gates. We had to search and search for an open road to actually get to their homes. It was scary, for sure. The taxi driver admitted that he was even scared. He says they attack taxis in El Milagro at this time of night. They lock up the streets that way to prevent robberies, but all I could keep thinking was how they get out if the need arises. They don’t, I guess.

Today, I cleaned my apartment and unpacked my last box. I got down on my hands and knees to scrub the floors; they needed it for sure. I put up new curtains, including a shower curtain! My new place is great. I just love all the space, hot water (so hot it scalds!), and my own kitchen. Something that is driving me nuts -- I have cockroaches. I mean cockroaches as big as mice. They are everywhere too, in my closets, in my cabinets, just running crazy. In the afternoon, I went into downtown to buy some much needed groceries; I have been living off canned tuna for two days now. I also bought something to kill my little cockroach friends. Pray, it works.

In the afternoon, I made a salad and visited the internet café that is next door. I have already made friends with the owner which is good. He wants to talk about psychology. I think it might mean he just wants to talk, but it does feel good to be settling in.

January 7, 2005
I am staying at my counterpart’s house tonight. My little apartment won’t be ready until tomorrow morning, so I am bunking here. It is a little wierd, cause I am not sure if they want me to chill with them or if it is ok to just hang out on the bed that they provided me with. I have had a pretty good day so far. I have realized that I am not as lonely here as I thought I would be earlier today.

I got into Trujillo around 7:30 this morning and went directly to my counterpart’s house. I slept for about 3 hours, since sleeping on that bus never works out good for me. I woke up and hung out with a couple of my coworkers who were a the house for a meeting. I left around 1:00 for the internet, where i stayed for an hour. After internet, I went to the post office. What a surprise to find that I had a package from Colorado. A good friend of mine is working out there and sent me a box filled with stuff I was just craving -- a low carb chocolate bar and a fingernail file.

I made it to El Milagro around 3:30 and everyone was extremely excited to see me. They wanted to see my photos and hear all about my time at home in the states. The moms and kids alike couldn't get enough of my stories. It really made me thankful for such a great group of people to work with. I have to admit I had been feeling a little bit down in the afternoon. I knew that I would, since that is what always happens on my first day back, but being around my families in El Milagro put me in a great mood.

After work, I stopped by my site mate’s place and found her busy in an evaluation with her youth. We ended up chatting and we caught up on what has been going on here and at home in the states. I was a bit surprised to find how much I had missed Trujillo and my life here.

January 5, 2005
Here I am on the plane to Lima, for who knows how long to stay. I have no plans to return to the states anytime soon. Heck, I almost think it would just be better for me to stay the entire year and a half without a trip home. We will see how long I make it, I guess. As for returning to Peru, I was ready to come back. I could see myself getting more than a little bored at home in the states. I miss my mom so much already. She cried when I left and I wanted her back so bad when I was waiting by myself in the terminal. She has been so great to me this vacation. With a home decked out in holiday spirit, to providing me with money, most importantly she is my best friend and I love her so much.

I am returning to Peru spiritually renewed and emotionally stronger.

I made it to Lima around midnight. I am now in a hotel that costs $20 and is close to an area of town I am familiar with, so things are good. I have good cable, too. My taxi driver and his wife were at the airport to pick me up as soon as i left the luggage area. I was surprised to see them. I guess that just goes to show they need the money and didn’t forget me. They actually invited me to lunch at thier house tomorrow. I had forgotten the humidity of this country. My hair was in fuzz and my skin sticky by the time I got settled in my room tonight. I guess I will have to get used to (again) the feeling of not quite being clean. You just can't feel as clean here as you can in the states, or atleast I can’t.

I am having a few lonely feelings now too. I know that they are normal and that it is natural to feel that way when you leave your loved ones to come to live in a foreign country. it just sucks a bit. Hopefully, I will feel better soon. I am anxious to get to Trujillo and get moved into my new pad. I look forward to decorating and getting all my new stuff set up.

January 4, 2005
I spoke about my PC experience to a high school Spanish class today at my ole stomping grounds in Hiawassee. It was interesting to be in front of American students telling them about Peru. Usually it is vice-versa with me telling Peruvians all about the USA. Mostly the kids were surprised to find that Peruvians eat guinea pig, just as Peruvians are surprised to find Americans keep guinea pigs in their homes as pets. One girl made a comment that I have had to change a lot by living in Peru. With that comment, I felt I had made something of an impression on the class -- that life in the United States is not like life in the whole world.

Tuesday, January 04, 2005

Kill a Turkey

December 27, 2004
Christmas was a great event as usual this year. I celebrated for three days with food, family, and presents. I am taking a great, new digital camera and a George Foreman grill back to Peru with me.

I can’t believe I have been here in the states for 6 days already. My how the time flies by…

December 22, 2004
The airport was absolutely packed with holiday traffic. I stood in line next to a group of 30 missionaries from South Carolina for an entire 3 hours. You would think that these people would have been a little nicer, since they came to Peru to promote (what I hope) is peace, love, and spiritual growth. They were screaming (in English) to everyone in the airport, fussing about the wait, and just generally being extremely embarrassing and obnoxious. I finally boarded my flight at 1:00 am and struggled to catch a few hours of sleep.

Mom was waiting on me at the airport. It was so great to see her; amazing how much you appreciate your mother when you don’t get to see her as often as you would like. We had a good breakfast and headed to our home in Helen, Georgia. She surprised me with her new home all decked out in holiday decorations. There were wreaths, Christmas trees, lights, and Santas everywhere. It is great to be at home and feel the holiday cheer.

December 20, 2004
The last couple of days have been a very busy. I have had three Christmas parties, one at work with my little kiddies, one with my coworkers, and the last one with my ACJ bosses. All three parties were extremely entertaining and warm. It seems that they focus more on the true meaning of Christmas instead of bombarding each other with gifts. We said warm, inspirational words to each other as we passed out small gifts and ate paneton (a fruit cake that tastes like sweet bread).

I have also been on a big ‘new home’ search. I have looked and looked all around Trujillo for a new family and new place to live. Since PC wants me to live closer to my counterparts, that means that I get to live in a nicer area of town, closer to downtown. At the end of two solid days of searching, I finally found my new home. It is like a mini apartment inside a family’s home. I will have my own bathroom, my own little kitchen, hot water, and internet! And to top it all off, the family seems really genuine and nice.

I head to Lima tonight to catch my flight home for the holidays.

December 14, 2004
Just when I was thinking that it takes forever to get something accomplished in this country -- I am surprised! I had my second site visit today. My APCD from Lima came to see how my work and living situation is working out. He showed up around 9:00 am and I discussed a few difficulties/successes I had been having and then we went to El Milagro where we chatted with my coworkers. My coworkers gave my APCD wonderful feedback on my job as a volunteer. (They think I rock!) Then, we returned to my house to chat with my family. He discussed with them that all PCVs have to pay rent and I haven’t paid since I moved in the place. He also told them I would be moving. Holy smokes! I get to move to be closer to my coworkers (who live where there is hot water, laundry mats, and more!) He made it so easy. It was surprising for them I could tell, but you just gotta get it out there in touchy situations like this. Yet, another thing I am learning from this experience. Oh yeah, maybe things got done so much faster because the Gringo was the one doing it.

December 10, 2004
I got up around 10:00 this morning. My site mate and I went out dancing last night with a couple of her new guy friends. It was fun to actually get dressed up, put on makeup and heels, for a night on the town. Having never met her friends, I was a bit nervous to what I could be getting into, but they were very respectful and easy to talk to. We got back to my house around 3:00 am to find the front door locked with the chain – incredibly odd. I had to wake up my family to get into the house.

I made it to work to have my English class and had a great time with my little kiddies. The five that were there were very surprised when I pulled out 5 coloring books in English with easy-to-do puzzles. They just went berserk over them! They wanted to color and draw all morning. Not to mention we practiced our numbers and colors in English. I think I bought those at the dollar store when I was at home in the states. Boy, what kids at home take for granted.

I had to change my email. There is a mean virus going around; it is shutting down some of these internet cafes for days.

I cleaned my room and hand-washed some of my laundry. I also made my special cup of coffee -- I brought some great real chocolate down from Cajamarca which I add to my brewed organic coffee, top it all off with 3 packs of Splenda and 2 spoonfuls of powdered milk. And wala -- you have a Peace Corps Mocha Cappuccino.

December 5, 2004
I was actually missing being in Trujillo. I think that means something positive. If while I am not here, but miss it, it has to mean that I am getting accustomed to this crazy place. It’s just good to be home, in my little room, with my things, where I feel comfortable. Lima is such a big busy city. It is so American in so many ways. Things are readily available at your finger tips, it’s expensive, and you see a huge variety of people making their homes there.

My site mate and I met for dinner tonight, did some shopping, and then saw a movie. The movie was fair; something about Sky Captain. I don’t recommend it.

December 3, 2004
Well, I have been able to spend almost a week in Lima. I was invited to volunteer (with some other PCVs) at the annual Children with Special Needs Christmas Party at the Ambassador’s Mansion. They didn’t pull any stops for this event. There were games, face painting, donuts & chocolate milk for about 300 hundred deaf, blind, and burnt children. Santa, Mrs. Claus, an Elf, Barney, and Elmo completed the event. As volunteers, we were asked to help guide the children and just generally be of assistance. I was assigned to the blind group. My Spanish definitely struggled a little bit when I had to be very conscious about what I said and how I described each thing; gone were the hand gestures I find I use a lot.

In the afternoon, a couple of volunteers and I went shopping in a whole sale market by the central plaza in Lima. Things are so cheap here – Jackpot!!

November 30, 2004
I am in Lima working on the Peace Corps Peru Newsletter, Pasa La Voz. I volunteered to be part of the newsletter staff at the VAC meeting, a couple of months ago, to help out. Here I am on a 3-day all expenses paid trip to the capital city of Peru. Which in laymen’s terms means I am staying with an Embassy employee along with another volunteer, walking everywhere (can’t afford the taxis), and eating what’s in the frig because I am broke.

November 28, 2004
I got up late this morning along with the rest of our crowd here in Cajamarca. We ventured to the central market for lunch, fruit, and a few necessities. A couple of other volunteers, who happened to be in town, joined us. We spent the rest of the afternoon hanging out at the hostel, just chatting, listening to music, and watching TV.

I ventured to internet for a short email session to find that my email has been hijacked once again. A couple of days ago, I attempted to download a zip file, which I had received from a fellow volunteer. Much to my dismay, my emails were messed up. I couldn’t log in and many people from home said that the same virus had been sent to them from my blocked emails. I had a computer guy ‘fix’ it for me and he says that someone is hacking the emails here. Today I was able to get into my emails, both yahoo and hotmail, but someone had changed my settings and sent offensive messages. I know that it is someone in Peru, because the messages are in Spanish.

I have a 14-hour bus ride from Cajamarca to Lima tonight at 7:00.

November 27, 2004
We got up this morning at 3:45 am to venture about 25 miles from Cajamarca to an old Incan aqueduct in Cumbemayo. I was thinking how crazy I am to have let my fellow volunteers talk me into such an adventure. We get to our destination around 4:30 am. It was still dark and we traipsed down a scary hill to what I thought must be a town of some sort. Much to my dismay, one straw house awaited us. We bypassed the straw house to climb a small embankment where we set up the breakfast camp. We ate bread and jam and waiting for the sun to rise. As the sun was making its light known to all, we ventured to the top of the first peak we found. It was cool to just hang out and watch it get light outside, many miles away from the nearest town. The view was magnificent with mountains that protruding from the ground like upside down tin cans. We hiked for several hours and discovered the aqueduct (along with some mean smelling feces on all of our feet). For our trip home, we hailed the milk truck and climbed aboard the back joining several other country folk, since only a few combis pass down the dirt road per day. I have to say that my ride back into town on top of metal buckets of cow’s milk has been the highlight of my Peace Corps experience.

November 25, 2004
My site mate and I made it to Cajamarca for Turkey Day and what a turkey day is has turned out to be. I woke up this morning to find a live turkey patiently sitting on the bed of my site mate (where she was still sleeping). A couple of other volunteers had just bought the thing in the market for our big celebration. After naming it and a little maltreatment, it was carried to another volunteer’s house for the slaughter. There my volunteer friends got the turkey drunk. Literally, they poured conazo (a grain alcohol made at home in all of Cajamarca – think white lightning) down its throat, proceeded to slit its throat, and finally pluck it clean. I kept a feather as a memoir of this momentous event. We then carried the now ready to cook turkey to another volunteers pad for its new home in the oven. We prepared a stuffing of wheat bread, veggies, star fruit and apples. Trimmed the meal with made-from-scratch sweet potato pie and garlic mashed potatoes. By 5:00 pm the bird was done, we pulled her out and chowed down; regretting a bit the star fruit we had added to the stuffing for it smelled a little bizarre. A great Peace Corps Thanksgiving feast had begun.

November 24, 2004
Having searched on the internet for anything about my site and Trujillo, I recently encountered a group from the Netherlands in Huanchaco that is organizing itself to coordinate travelers who would like to volunteer while vacationing in Peru. Since we always need an extra hand in El Milagro, I invited this new group, Otra Cosa, for a visit. The couple in charge accompanied me to work and was immediately bombarded by all the little kiddies of our program. I could tell they could sense what I feel everyday working with them – they unconditional love and devotion and sheer exhaustion of so many hugs, kisses, and attention. We hung around and talked with my counterparts, sharing ideas and information. Later we visited the landfill to see the reality of the families. I am so incredibly affected each time I visit there. The poverty that leads people to make their living in such circumstances is so unbelievable at times, but how real that it all truly exists.

November 23, 2004
I had my Dental Health workshop with the kids and adolescents today. We played a couple of games that involved the basics of brushing your teeth and what you can use when you don’t have a toothbrush or toothpaste. A little salt and your pointer finger can work wonders! The YMCA had agreed to donate toothbrushes to the kids who attended, so what a surprise when I pulled out real toothbrushes for everyone. We first ate a candy to dirty our teeth and then proceeded to brush. What I didn’t anticipate was that many had never before held a toothbrush. I had to manually help them maneuver their brush in their mouth; advise them not to swallow the toothpaste; and explain the importance of brushing your tongue. We took an excellent photo of the smiling bright white mouths afterwards. Now if I can just get them to do it everyday.